21. Survival Skill – making rabbit snare

First off the miracle of dental floss strikes again! Not only does it work great on your teeth, it makes a great clothes line, emergency tent rope, fishing line, shoe lace (so so), tent repair thread, clothes thread, IT MAKES A GREAT RABBIT SNARE!!

Snaring is the LAST RESORT OF FOOD SOURCING! This is a very MISS more than hit means of trapping.

Loop snares can be anchored 3 feet into brush at a choke point in a trail of brush. Set your loop at the preys head height with the loop spread greater than the head width (usually a fist should fit easily through for a rabbit head). Use half hitch knots that will slip down and secure as your prey struggles to get free. Make sure the long end is securely fastend. You need to set many snares in many choke points as this is a hit or miss way of trapping. This means of trapping one should look for animal tracks, and low lush grasses, berries etc. that animals will feed on . Unfortunately larger animals going through an area are going to knock your snares to the side. Sometimes when looking at an area with many sources of food set many snares.

Trip snares are just hard and winds set them off, need baiting and basically a forested area. I have never had any luck with them personally and never set them anymore.

Hope this helps.


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6 Responses to “21. Survival Skill – making rabbit snare”

  1. May 12, 2008 at 8:16 pm

    Great help Thanks

  2. November 5, 2008 at 5:02 pm

    nice job on your work! keep it up.

  3. 4 Evan
    November 20, 2008 at 10:47 pm

    Better than a choke point in the bush is either side of an opening, be it a natural clearing of any size or either side of a wide trail. Rabbits hop-hop along through the protected cover of the bush but bee-line it when they are faced with an opening to cross. As long as your snare is set on a rabbit trail, they usually never see it coming.

    Also, if you are planning to bring dental floss on a trip in the event that you’d need it for uses other than your teeth, pack a few loops of snare wire — it’ll do as good a job as dental floss for most things and takes up fractionally more space.

  4. 5 Mike
    October 19, 2009 at 1:48 am

    Your right that a snare is only for emergencies (unless you live in the woods.) Dental floss works ok but if you dumpster dive regularily (like I do) you’ll often come across old electrical machines and can then cut of their power cord and strip it down to the individual wires and use them (and yeah they’re often pretty shiny but a week or two of use/exposure will take care of that.) Not sure what “snare wire” really is since I’ve never done any “real” trapping, just the occasional raccoon or oppossum. Mike

  5. 6 cody
    December 6, 2009 at 10:37 am

    its best to wait if you can to set the snares a day or two after a fresh snow fall is best then you can see where they are running. The idea behind a snare is to catch the animal on the trail where it is the most narrow… this increases your odds of a catch. Also forget the dental floss. The rabbits here are too big for that stuff. I would go with aircraft cable snares. You can buy them cheap from many trapping supply stores. The best size cable is 1?16 or smaller cable. It works and it can be a very quick way to thin out trouble rabbits or to pick up a couple extra that you would have missed when hunting. Best bet if you are hunting them also (without dogs) is to set the egdes or the brush where you can see the rabbit trails first, then go in hunting those few that try and sneek around you get nabbed. Just remember to keep the loop to about the size of a rabbits head and to keep it as low to the ground as you beleive the rabbit would hold his head when walking or running. The best of luck to you.

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